Below: Now it's time for glue up and everything needs to be organised before glue hits wood. Glueing down a fair sized chink of pretty pricey wood and I want to ensure it goes on right. Once glued down,you can't get it off easily. In fact if it goes on wrong your are pretty much stuck with it. First step - set up the top so it is in line with the join in the core. you can see i have drilled some holes and fitted some pine dowel plugs. When the top hits the core and there is wet glue everywhere it will be a cinch to get it lined up. When pressure is applied it won't go scooting anywhere on its cushion of slippery glue. |
Step 2 get everything you will need close by - heaps of clamps |
Glue and a roller to apply it, most important a cup of tea |
The boards |
then the fun bit the glue is spread and the boards put together - needs to be done within a couple of minutes becaues as soon as the glue hits the dry wood it starts to go off. You can see a little glue dripping around the edges |
Then a few clamps are put on to press the top to the core and ensure a good bond. Not too many ok just enough so its firm |
Below: The top is out from the glueup jig, trimmed and looking great |
First look at the neck. The headstock needs shaping. |
The back of the neck behind the nut has to have that awful lump carved out. |
First job is to cut the front of the neck down and create the the platform for the nut |
Then I get stuck into shaping the neck back profile. Being mahogany it cuts like butter. |
Cut and refine until I get looking and feeling just right. Being mahogany having the volute behnd the the nut is pretty much mandatory as this type of neck has a tendency to easily break if dropped. The volute gives extra strength. The wings glued to the edge of the headstock and the laminations also help. On top of all that there is a plate albeit a thin one i have glued to the front. If Gibson did all these things the famous gibson headstock break would not be an issue. |
There's the plate glued on. Does't look much but when cleaned up it will show some nice curl and be a great match for the body |
The headstock template giving us an idea of how it will look. |
I actually mark it out on the rear of the headstock as it will be much
easier to cut it out with the headstock laying flat. I havent finally decided
exactly where I will lay the headstock just yet. I may move it back a little
to line up more with the wings already there. Definitely keep the sweep
as on the template but a little shorter. Got it positioned and attached the template. I have taken off most of the waste on the spindle sander. Just tidy it up with the router. |
Cut the tuner holes and try on a pair of the Grover locking tuners to see the fit and all is good. Decided to cut back the volute as there is plenty of meat in the neck so it will be plenty strong enough. | ||
spend a quiet hour rubbing it all down till the wood starts to shine. At this point it is ready for the first coat of finish | ||
You can see the beautiful soft sheen come up after a couple coats of sealing oil. The figure in the myrtle face plate looks pretty nice | ||
After spending way more time on the neck than I budgeted
for it hangs in the drying cupboard waiting to have the frets touched
up. First job though will be to cut the neck pocket, locate and cut
the bridge post and pickup cavities. I think in pounds for guitars and to me a very lightweight tele body will go around 4lbs with the hardware on about 6lbs, Many tele bodies are around 5lb and usually around 7 to 8lbs finished. This body is 5lb but the hardware and neck weighs a bit more so it will be 8 3/4lbs roughly. |
||
After a break over easter and some time off for the flu
it is back to #19 Time to bind the body, Below binding chase cut. |
||
Upper and lower bouts binding in place. | ||
Cutaway done. | ||
Side view | ||
Binding goes on before cutting the neck pocket, Tricky job as I need to cut this pocket on a roughly 2 deg angle. So as usual I cut a pocket template taking care to lay it out pretty carefully and line the whole thing up good with a laser. [which you can't see in the pic] | ||
All done ready to cut | ||
Cut some of the waste out with a forstner bit | ||
therer she is ready for the crucial neck pocket rout which is the guts of the whole guitar really. Need to get the angle right setting up the template on the body so the string hits the bridge saddle at the right hieght and the whole thing lines up good down the centre line | ||
Back to the neck for a minute while I got it out. Sign and
give it a serial number 19-300312 The number goes like this: Guitar build number [in this case 19] with a dash followed by the date the neck got its second coat of finish.ddmmyy Sometimes it is the day the neck pocket was cut. Next job on the neck is to level crown and polish the frets, There will be a couple of ultra thin coats of finish applied to ensure we have a good vapour barrier. I call this type of finsh the "Noskin finish" as it looks and feels like there is no finish at all. It looks and feels like polished wood. There is however an excellent vapour barrier but no thin layer of plastic goop to chip or wear off. |
||
While I am at it I need to do a Little more work on the heel. It needs to be shortened around 30 mm. You can see the progression from markout to application of finish. Needs a bit of care to stay on the center line, keep things even on both sides and not go under the existing profile. | ||
00 | ||
To look at it you would not know it had, just a few minutes earlier, been covered in rasp marks and whiskers. |
back to the body momentarily for a good tidy up and sand to 240 grit.
The profiles got most of the attention as well as getting the binding
flushed down pretty good on top and all round.the edges. Next on the body will be the neck pocket, the bridge posts and finally the pickup routs, control cavity cover rout and various other holes for wiring etc |
After an hour or two of measuring and drawing up the neck to body angle
geometry I have a working drawing of the neck pocket. The template will
need to sit on runners cut at the correct angle which is in this case
1.25 degrees. the runners will need to be fitted to the template lining
up exactly to the front edge of the pocket. Three should be sufficient
to make it stable. Once the pocket is cut the bridge posts will need to be located. This also is a crucial part of the build. Unlike the nock pocket where accuracy is the key, there is a fair deal of adjustment in the Gotoh 510UB bridge. The most important part is to get it lined up to the centre line of the body and neck. Fortunately i have a template already cut which I have used in the past so all I need to do is get it at the right position to maximise the range of available adjustment. Below: the gotoh 510UB in matte chrome - the one for this job is in full chrome |
Setting up the neck pocket angle on the routing jig |
Clamp it down tight dead on the centre line |
Done - just need to square up the corners. |
Try the neck in the pocket and all is good - it lines up nice down the body centre line right up to the centre at the nut. |
Get the bridge post holes cut and the bridge is all set up exactly right at the treble E side. It angles back a little to accomodate the bass E which needs a little more length. Damn cold in the shed here today and you can see one of the security guys hogging the heater in the bottom right of the pic. |
Got the pickup cavities cut plus the wiring ports are all in as well. Only a few more jobs and it will be time for finish sanding.. |
Finally I can get an accurate idea of the finished weight of this guitar. Weighing in at 4.5lbs it will be a pretty average wieght guitar. Once I add in the weight of the neck and other parts and fittings we will be around the 8.5lb or 3.86 kg Moving straight along the body has been sanded and polished to within
an inch of its life and I have run the first lot of "no skin finish
over it. |
You can really see the 3D effect of the grain in this shot. Tiger stripes, flame or curl it is called. |
Been a long haul but here she is after the initial setup The intonation and nut have been setup and it plays well. The tone can be pretty aggressive when let off the lead but also has a warm and mellow side to its personality. Beautifull jazzy tones on the neck and a real balls to wall heavy rock / blues on the bridge. Feels nice to the body and I will use the new profiles I designed for this job again Even though it looks pretty much finished there is still a surprising amount of work to be done. The pickguard template needs to be made and the guard cut. The truss rod access hole cover also needs fitting plus the usual tweaking of the setup as it all settles in. It first came under string tension this arvo and it does take a day or two for everything to equalise. |
Final workshop pics - general check of setup in a couple of days is
all that is left to be done The pickups are by Mick Brierley, an adelaide winder who makes the best pickups I ever seen. These are Micks' take on the origianl P.A.F.humbuckers designed by Seth Lover in 1955 while he was working as an engineer for Gibson Guitars. These particular ones sound fabulous in this guitar. The final weight of the guitar is 8lb on the dot or 3.6kg, 260 grams under our target weight. Not bad for a solid mahogany guitar of this size with a very dense hardwood top. The first shot is mainly of the headstock. Apols for the duff pic. thats my thumb in shot :{ |
So thats a fairly complete log of number 19 - if you have followed the
whole thing through thanks for taking the time. Stay tuned for number 20 coming soon. I call it "The Banshee" The body and neck are built. The neck carve is still to be done and the cavities cut in the body. It will be a small body guitar with one pickup, an SD Screamin Demon set up Esquire style. This guitar will be pretty much a smutty rock n roll machine to be played only between consenting adults. |